Showing posts with label water. Show all posts
Showing posts with label water. Show all posts
Thursday, May 23, 2013
Water Damage
Damage Assessment
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Thursday, April 4, 2013
Biohazard Decontamination Unit
Our Newly expanded services, Biohazard Decontamination Unit, is under way!
While we pray none of you are ever exposed to this situation, these services can be provided with compassion and detail by the staff at 1st Response.
If you need crime scene clean-up guidance, have questions about your payment options, which crime scene clean up procedures your current insurance policy covers or require our cleanup services immediately, don't hesitate to call 1st Response at: 888-233-4321.
· Your regular cleaning or janitorial service has not been properly certified OR equipped to handle biohazardous waste such as blood or bodily fluids, and does not have a legally accepted mechanism in place to dispose of the recovered bio-hazard waste.
· Federal Regulation 29-CFR-1910.1030 states that no employee can be placed in a position to be exposed to a blood spill without first:
1. Bloodborne pathogen (BBP) training.
2. A written BBP exposure control plan.
3. Proper training on the correct usage of personal protective Equipment.
4. Hepatits B vaccine, exposure evaluation follow-up.
5. Proper method to store and dispose of biohazardous waste.
Body protection is required for employees who face potential bodily injury of any kind that cannot be eliminated through engineering, work practice or administrative controls while performing their jobs.
Exposure to blood and other body fluids is an example of a workplace hazard that could cause bodily injury. In addition, exposure may cause illness. - OSHA (Occupational Safety and Health Administration)
or
740-345-4911
or info@ohio1st-response.com.
· LICKING COUNTY
· KNOX COUNTY
· COSHOCTON COUNTY
· MUSKINGUM COUNTY
· PERRY COUNTY
· FAIRFIELD COUNTY
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Thursday, June 14, 2012
Flood Damages
Most Flood Damages are from natural disasters. To minimize your losses it is good to check always the area of your Property in case you need to purchase additional coverage.
Ask your Insurance Company about flood insurance and if you qualify for it. It is always best to have additional coverage if your home or facility is in in a Flood Prone Area.
Remember that water which comes from outside of your home mostly are not covered by your regular home insurance policy. It is always best to read and understand your policy.
Ask your Insurance Company about flood insurance and if you qualify for it. It is always best to have additional coverage if your home or facility is in in a Flood Prone Area.
Remember that water which comes from outside of your home mostly are not covered by your regular home insurance policy. It is always best to read and understand your policy.
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Monday, May 21, 2012
Smoke Damage
Smoke-damaged walls are an inevitable part of a house fire. Smoke and soot can travel throughout your home and saturate any surface, which can be difficult to remove without the proper supplies, expertise, and experience in using them.
Professional restorers have years of experience and know how to use restoration products safely.
You should hire a professional restoration company to restore your home after a fire, and having them clean and repair smoke-damaged walls is a big part of fire damage cleanup.
Professional restorers have years of experience and know how to use restoration products safely.
You should hire a professional restoration company to restore your home after a fire, and having them clean and repair smoke-damaged walls is a big part of fire damage cleanup.
Tuesday, February 28, 2012
"When your home or business suffers damage from FIRE, SMOKE, WATER, STORM DAMAGE and MOLD, it's important for you to know it can be restored or reconstructed.
From clean-up to finished construction, we handle it all. Our goal is 100% complete satisfaction for every client no matter the damage - no matter the size of the loss. We diligently strive to maintain our reputation as the leading damage repair specialist in Central Ohio."
Craig Young
President, 1st Response
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Monday, May 23, 2011
1st Response suggestitons .......
Craig Young and 1st Response say consider using the following flood damage prevention tips:
•Install a sewer backflow valve to prevent sewage from backing up into the house.
•Elevate water heaters, furnaces, washers and dryers at least six inches above basement floors or move them to an upper floor. Use a licensed contractor when making plumbing or electrical changes.
•Raise electrical panel boxes, switches, and outlets at least one foot above the 100-year flood level. For help in determining the 100-year flood level in your area, check with local officials.
•Cut drywall to at least one-half inch above the floor, especially in basements. Concrete floors commonly absorb ground moisture which travels up the wallboard allowing mold to grow unseen within the walls. Seal the gap between the wallboard and the floor with wood or rubberized floor trim.
•Anchor a fuel tank by securing it to a large concrete slab or to ground anchors using metal straps.
•Add waterproof veneer to exterior walls and seal all openings, including doors.
•Use flood-resistant building materials – materials that can withstand direct contact with floodwaters for at least 72 hours without being significantly damaged. These building materials are available at many home improvement stores.•Build interior and exterior floodwalls. A watertight masonry floodwall can be constructed to enclose furnaces, utilities and appliances on the lowest floor of the building. On the outside, a similar wall could be constructed around the perimeter of the basement opening to keep water from entering.
•Install a sewer backflow valve to prevent sewage from backing up into the house.
•Elevate water heaters, furnaces, washers and dryers at least six inches above basement floors or move them to an upper floor. Use a licensed contractor when making plumbing or electrical changes.
•Raise electrical panel boxes, switches, and outlets at least one foot above the 100-year flood level. For help in determining the 100-year flood level in your area, check with local officials.
•Cut drywall to at least one-half inch above the floor, especially in basements. Concrete floors commonly absorb ground moisture which travels up the wallboard allowing mold to grow unseen within the walls. Seal the gap between the wallboard and the floor with wood or rubberized floor trim.
•Anchor a fuel tank by securing it to a large concrete slab or to ground anchors using metal straps.
•Add waterproof veneer to exterior walls and seal all openings, including doors.
•Use flood-resistant building materials – materials that can withstand direct contact with floodwaters for at least 72 hours without being significantly damaged. These building materials are available at many home improvement stores.•Build interior and exterior floodwalls. A watertight masonry floodwall can be constructed to enclose furnaces, utilities and appliances on the lowest floor of the building. On the outside, a similar wall could be constructed around the perimeter of the basement opening to keep water from entering.
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Tuesday, May 4, 2010
After the Flood Tips
1.Exercise caution when first entering your home. If there is still standing water, it is prudent to wear rubber boots and gloves. Turn the electricity off at the breaker box and get all electrical appliances and extension cords up on higher ground dry them out. Make sure your home is structurally safe, which means looking out for broken sharp objects on the floor and anything you might trip over.
2.Boil all drinking water or use bottled water. All drinking water should be either boiled, put through a water purifier or use bottled water. Areas that are dry but have been exposed to sewage should be thoroughly washed down with a solution of household bleach and water. We recommend a 25% bleach to water solution.
3.If in doubt, throw it out. Toss out all water damaged rugs, particle board furniture, mattresses, suitcases, food, even photographs and books, and follow your local authority guidelines for disposal. Many electrical appliances will not survive if they have been submerged in water. Dishwashers, refrigerators and vacuum cleaners are cheaper to replace than repair. Use rubber gloves and mask to clean loose debris to not inhale any toxic particles.
4.Wash and dry everything you can. This includes water soaked bedding, towels, drapes, cushions and clothing using the hot sanitizing cycle on your washing machine. Dry clean heat sensitive textiles. Put dishes through the dishwasher on hot cycle.
5.Remove remaining water and dehumidify damp areas. Clean up the last standing water with a portable submersible sump pump and a wet dry vac. Then use a high capacity, low temperature dehumidifier to take care of the rest. An auxiliary or built in pump makes this task a lot easier. It is important to open windows and ventilate rather than turn on the heat high [about 50°F] in the house or use fans, which is an invitation to grow mold spores and spread them around the house. Do not try to dry out the house too quickly, because if you do it will cause wood floors to warp and buckle.
6.Clean all surfaces thoroughly. Wash down all surfaces, such walls, cabinets, basement floors including those which were not in direct flood contact with your bleach solution. Then wipe down with clear water. Using a vapor steam cleaner on all surfaces to disinfect is an even better solution.
7.Check for interior and structural damage. Remove dry wall up to and 2 feet above flood levels on walls and remove all insulation which came in contact with flood waters. It is imperative to do this if you want to avoid future mold problems. We have heard too many horror stories from people whose houses became infested with toxic mold - so it is not worth taking a chance and skipping this step. Replace hardwood flooring especially all sub floors if they have been flood soaked. Keep ventilating with fresh air until the house is completely dry. Have the duct work professionally cleaned after the house has dried out.
8. Inspect your electrical and plumbing systems. Have an HVAC professional inspect your electrical systems and appliances. Replace all filters and switches. Check your furnace, as a burnout of the motor may be imminent. Make sure your plumbing and toilet facilities are working.
2.Boil all drinking water or use bottled water. All drinking water should be either boiled, put through a water purifier or use bottled water. Areas that are dry but have been exposed to sewage should be thoroughly washed down with a solution of household bleach and water. We recommend a 25% bleach to water solution.
3.If in doubt, throw it out. Toss out all water damaged rugs, particle board furniture, mattresses, suitcases, food, even photographs and books, and follow your local authority guidelines for disposal. Many electrical appliances will not survive if they have been submerged in water. Dishwashers, refrigerators and vacuum cleaners are cheaper to replace than repair. Use rubber gloves and mask to clean loose debris to not inhale any toxic particles.
4.Wash and dry everything you can. This includes water soaked bedding, towels, drapes, cushions and clothing using the hot sanitizing cycle on your washing machine. Dry clean heat sensitive textiles. Put dishes through the dishwasher on hot cycle.
5.Remove remaining water and dehumidify damp areas. Clean up the last standing water with a portable submersible sump pump and a wet dry vac. Then use a high capacity, low temperature dehumidifier to take care of the rest. An auxiliary or built in pump makes this task a lot easier. It is important to open windows and ventilate rather than turn on the heat high [about 50°F] in the house or use fans, which is an invitation to grow mold spores and spread them around the house. Do not try to dry out the house too quickly, because if you do it will cause wood floors to warp and buckle.
6.Clean all surfaces thoroughly. Wash down all surfaces, such walls, cabinets, basement floors including those which were not in direct flood contact with your bleach solution. Then wipe down with clear water. Using a vapor steam cleaner on all surfaces to disinfect is an even better solution.
7.Check for interior and structural damage. Remove dry wall up to and 2 feet above flood levels on walls and remove all insulation which came in contact with flood waters. It is imperative to do this if you want to avoid future mold problems. We have heard too many horror stories from people whose houses became infested with toxic mold - so it is not worth taking a chance and skipping this step. Replace hardwood flooring especially all sub floors if they have been flood soaked. Keep ventilating with fresh air until the house is completely dry. Have the duct work professionally cleaned after the house has dried out.
8. Inspect your electrical and plumbing systems. Have an HVAC professional inspect your electrical systems and appliances. Replace all filters and switches. Check your furnace, as a burnout of the motor may be imminent. Make sure your plumbing and toilet facilities are working.
Tuesday, April 13, 2010
Summer Tips
Some handy tips from 1st Response, when an emergency arises, think of 1st Response, a Full Service Contractor
Furniture Care
Outdoor tables, chairs, and lawn chaises are built from materials that are generally tough enough to withstand sun, rain, and wind. Day to day, they require little more than frequent hosing off. Specialized care is required, however, when stains, scuffs, and scrapes appear. In many cases, cleaners and waxes designed for the care of cars, boats, and decks are appropriate for use on outdoor furnishings. At the end of the season, cover outdoor furnishings with canvas or cotton sheeting to keep them free of dust and protected from moisture. Store the furniture in a shed, a garage, or on a covered porch. Or, if it can't be kept in a protected area, wrap it well in waterproof tarps designed for outdoor storage of furniture.
Fabric
Outdoor woven fabrics generally undergo a chemical treatment during manufacturing to increase stain and moisture resistance, regardless of whether they are made from synthetic fibers, such as vinyl-coated polyester or acrylic, or from cotton blends.
Once a week, hose fabrics down to remove dust, dirt, and body oils. To deep clean, scrub with a utility brush and a solution of mild soap, such as Dr. Bronner's, and lukewarm water. Avoid detergents and hot water, which can strip the protective coating off of outdoor fabrics. If fabrics are badly stained or mildewed, scrub with a solution of 1/ 2 cup oxygen bleach and 5 gallons of warm water.
Cushions
Store all outdoor cushions in a covered area to protect them from rain. If cushions become wet, stand them on end to expedite drying.
Umbrellas
Rinse regularly with a spray hose throughout the outdoor season, or all year if you live in a warm climate or humid environment. If mildew is present, remove the cover from the frame, if possible, and brush away any mildew.
If the label says "machine-washable," place it in a washing machine filled with cold water and a cup of oxygen bleach. Agitate to mix and let the cover sit overnight. Next, drain the water and spin, then launder the cover in cold water using mild soap such as Dr. Bronner's. Return it to the frame, in the open position, to dry in the sun.
Awnings
Rinse regularly with a spray hose throughout the outdoor season. Allow the awning to air-dry thoroughly after cleaning; always open awnings after rain to let them dry thoroughly. For a deep cleaning, first rinse the awning, then use a long-handled brush to apply a solution of water and mild soap, such as Dr. Bronner's. Rinse again. Clean awnings thoroughly and let them dry completely before storing. Store awnings off the ground to lessen the chance that they will become winter homes for rodents.
Driveways, Walks, and Patios
Although driveways and walks are utilitarian, they are extensions of the home, and one of the first things people see when entering your property. Regular care of these areas will prevent them from becoming damaged or unsightly. Sweep weekly with an outdoor push or corn broom or rinse with a hose to keep surfaces clean.
Furniture Care
Outdoor tables, chairs, and lawn chaises are built from materials that are generally tough enough to withstand sun, rain, and wind. Day to day, they require little more than frequent hosing off. Specialized care is required, however, when stains, scuffs, and scrapes appear. In many cases, cleaners and waxes designed for the care of cars, boats, and decks are appropriate for use on outdoor furnishings. At the end of the season, cover outdoor furnishings with canvas or cotton sheeting to keep them free of dust and protected from moisture. Store the furniture in a shed, a garage, or on a covered porch. Or, if it can't be kept in a protected area, wrap it well in waterproof tarps designed for outdoor storage of furniture.
Fabric
Outdoor woven fabrics generally undergo a chemical treatment during manufacturing to increase stain and moisture resistance, regardless of whether they are made from synthetic fibers, such as vinyl-coated polyester or acrylic, or from cotton blends.
Once a week, hose fabrics down to remove dust, dirt, and body oils. To deep clean, scrub with a utility brush and a solution of mild soap, such as Dr. Bronner's, and lukewarm water. Avoid detergents and hot water, which can strip the protective coating off of outdoor fabrics. If fabrics are badly stained or mildewed, scrub with a solution of 1/ 2 cup oxygen bleach and 5 gallons of warm water.
Cushions
Store all outdoor cushions in a covered area to protect them from rain. If cushions become wet, stand them on end to expedite drying.
Umbrellas
Rinse regularly with a spray hose throughout the outdoor season, or all year if you live in a warm climate or humid environment. If mildew is present, remove the cover from the frame, if possible, and brush away any mildew.
If the label says "machine-washable," place it in a washing machine filled with cold water and a cup of oxygen bleach. Agitate to mix and let the cover sit overnight. Next, drain the water and spin, then launder the cover in cold water using mild soap such as Dr. Bronner's. Return it to the frame, in the open position, to dry in the sun.
Awnings
Rinse regularly with a spray hose throughout the outdoor season. Allow the awning to air-dry thoroughly after cleaning; always open awnings after rain to let them dry thoroughly. For a deep cleaning, first rinse the awning, then use a long-handled brush to apply a solution of water and mild soap, such as Dr. Bronner's. Rinse again. Clean awnings thoroughly and let them dry completely before storing. Store awnings off the ground to lessen the chance that they will become winter homes for rodents.
Driveways, Walks, and Patios
Although driveways and walks are utilitarian, they are extensions of the home, and one of the first things people see when entering your property. Regular care of these areas will prevent them from becoming damaged or unsightly. Sweep weekly with an outdoor push or corn broom or rinse with a hose to keep surfaces clean.
Thursday, March 18, 2010
Spring Cleaning Tips
INSIDE
CLEAN CARPETS as soon as the spring mud season is over. Vacuum them thoroughly, then shampoo with a spray foam or powder or rent a steamer from a hardware store for an even deeper clean.
CLEAN AND VENTILATE THE BASEMENT. Open windows and give your cellar a good airing, then sweep the area thoroughly or vacuum.
START UP YOUR DEHUMIDIFIER. Clean it, make sure that it's in working order, then run it in a humid basement or partially underground room. Dampness during spring and summer months causes mildew.
OUTSIDE
IF YOU HAVE A SWIMMING POOL, ensure that cleaning equipment is in good shape and your water-testing kit is complete. Stock up on chemicals. If you lowered the water level in the fall, fill the pool now.
PUT UP WINDOW BOXES. Dump out old soil and clean the boxes thoroughly. Line wooden boxes with garbage bags to protect them from moisture. Make sure there are drainage holes. Replant with potting soil.
INSTALL WINDOW-UNIT AIR CONDITIONERS. Carefully go over the unit with the brush attachment of your vacuum. Remove and wash the filter and let it dry completely, then reinstall it.
FERTILIZE YOUR LAWN A high-nitrogen fertilizer should be applied twice a year, once in spring and again later in fall. If a weed killer is needed, try an organic brand.
1st Response
Restoration and Reconstruction Specialists
Water - Fire - Smoke - Mold
CLEAN CARPETS as soon as the spring mud season is over. Vacuum them thoroughly, then shampoo with a spray foam or powder or rent a steamer from a hardware store for an even deeper clean.
CLEAN AND VENTILATE THE BASEMENT. Open windows and give your cellar a good airing, then sweep the area thoroughly or vacuum.
START UP YOUR DEHUMIDIFIER. Clean it, make sure that it's in working order, then run it in a humid basement or partially underground room. Dampness during spring and summer months causes mildew.
OUTSIDE
IF YOU HAVE A SWIMMING POOL, ensure that cleaning equipment is in good shape and your water-testing kit is complete. Stock up on chemicals. If you lowered the water level in the fall, fill the pool now.
PUT UP WINDOW BOXES. Dump out old soil and clean the boxes thoroughly. Line wooden boxes with garbage bags to protect them from moisture. Make sure there are drainage holes. Replant with potting soil.
INSTALL WINDOW-UNIT AIR CONDITIONERS. Carefully go over the unit with the brush attachment of your vacuum. Remove and wash the filter and let it dry completely, then reinstall it.
FERTILIZE YOUR LAWN A high-nitrogen fertilizer should be applied twice a year, once in spring and again later in fall. If a weed killer is needed, try an organic brand.
1st Response
Restoration and Reconstruction Specialists
Water - Fire - Smoke - Mold
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Tuesday, March 16, 2010
Signs of Water Damage
Does your house have any water damage?
Check for these warning signs right away so you can identify and stop the problem before it gets worse.
•Standing water on the floor. The most obvious sign of impending water damage are pools of water on the floor, most usually in the kitchen. These pools of water indicate that there's a continuous leak somewhere and it has been escaping the normal process of evaporation. If you've already mopped up standing water on your floor and then find some again the next couple of days, then put the mop aside and start looking for leaks or drips. You can mop all you want but as long as you don't fix the source, you will always end up doing the same thing. Your floor will also get damaged day after day.
•Indicators in the house's structure. If your floor begins to buckle slightly, then water is probably present. The reason for this is that vinyl floors are laid over particleboard underlayment that absorbs water and then swells up. If you have hardwood floors, water cups up around the tongue-and-groove joints.
The most common area where water damage is seen is the bathroom in front of the tub or shower --- the damage can occur from splashing or where people step in and out with dripping feet. Keep an eye out for any buckling.
For drywall, check for a discolored or slightly swollen appearance since drywall softens and breaks down.
•Appearance of stains. Next to standing water, the appearance of stains in several parts of your house is a good indication that you have a leak or water encroachment somewhere. The stains may appear:
•Around the windows or on the bottom of the exterior doors, indicating that the water is coming from the outside;
•At the joint between the exterior wall and the ceiling --- it can also mean an ice-damming problem;
•Anywhere in the ceiling, which is almost an indication of a roof leak, unless you have installed water lines in your attic. If you see stains on your ceiling, remember that it does not mean the leak is right above it. Usually, it originates higher and just drips down.
•In cabinets that house a sink --- an indication of a leak in the sink drain system or from the trap.
•Where there are mildew and mold stains. While not exactly definitive proof of a leak, the presence of mildew or molds indicates moisture. In a bathroom where moisture is prevalent, it's an indication that you just don't have enough ventilation to rid the room of mildew. If you see them at the bottom of an exterior wall, it might mean that water is coming in. In closets or places where there is little or no air circulation present, it could mean an overly damp crawl space.
Check for these warning signs right away so you can identify and stop the problem before it gets worse.
•Standing water on the floor. The most obvious sign of impending water damage are pools of water on the floor, most usually in the kitchen. These pools of water indicate that there's a continuous leak somewhere and it has been escaping the normal process of evaporation. If you've already mopped up standing water on your floor and then find some again the next couple of days, then put the mop aside and start looking for leaks or drips. You can mop all you want but as long as you don't fix the source, you will always end up doing the same thing. Your floor will also get damaged day after day.
•Indicators in the house's structure. If your floor begins to buckle slightly, then water is probably present. The reason for this is that vinyl floors are laid over particleboard underlayment that absorbs water and then swells up. If you have hardwood floors, water cups up around the tongue-and-groove joints.
The most common area where water damage is seen is the bathroom in front of the tub or shower --- the damage can occur from splashing or where people step in and out with dripping feet. Keep an eye out for any buckling.
For drywall, check for a discolored or slightly swollen appearance since drywall softens and breaks down.
•Appearance of stains. Next to standing water, the appearance of stains in several parts of your house is a good indication that you have a leak or water encroachment somewhere. The stains may appear:
•Around the windows or on the bottom of the exterior doors, indicating that the water is coming from the outside;
•At the joint between the exterior wall and the ceiling --- it can also mean an ice-damming problem;
•Anywhere in the ceiling, which is almost an indication of a roof leak, unless you have installed water lines in your attic. If you see stains on your ceiling, remember that it does not mean the leak is right above it. Usually, it originates higher and just drips down.
•In cabinets that house a sink --- an indication of a leak in the sink drain system or from the trap.
•Where there are mildew and mold stains. While not exactly definitive proof of a leak, the presence of mildew or molds indicates moisture. In a bathroom where moisture is prevalent, it's an indication that you just don't have enough ventilation to rid the room of mildew. If you see them at the bottom of an exterior wall, it might mean that water is coming in. In closets or places where there is little or no air circulation present, it could mean an overly damp crawl space.
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Friday, November 20, 2009
EMERGENCY Tips from 1st Response
Learn what to do and what not to do on water, fire and smoke damage
If you’re in the midst of a water, fire or smoke disaster, know that 1st Response will be there when you call 345-4911. In the meantime, here are some ways to mitigate the damage yourself.
What to do if you ever have water damage:
If the outside temperature is above 60 degrees, use dehumidifiers if available.
Use fans to circulate the air and assist drying.
Remove as much water as possible by mopping and blotting.
Wipe furniture dry.
Lift draperies off carpet, loop through a coat hanger, and place the hanger on the drapery rod.
Prop up wet furniture cushions for even drying and place small wood blocks or aluminum foil under furniture legs.
Remove wet area rugs or other floor coverings.
Open furniture drawers, closet doors, and luggage to enhance drying.
Move photos, paintings, and art objects to a safe, dry location.
Remove wet fabrics and dry them as soon as possible. Hang furs and leather goods to dry separately at room temperature.
Remove damp books from shelves and spread out to dry.
If damage occurs during a cool season, leave heat on; if in summer, use an air conditioner if available.
Important warnings on water damage
Do not use an ordinary household vacuum to remove water.
Do not use electrical appliances while on wet carpet or wet floors.
Do not go into rooms with standing water if the electricity is still on.
Do not lift tacked down carpet without professional help. Lifting the carpet incorrectly could promote shrinkage.
Do not wait to call for professional help. Damage from the water and bacteria growth can begin within hours.
What to do if you have smoke/fire damage
Blow off or brush-vacuum loose soot particles from upholstery, drapes, and carpets.
Cover carpeted traffic areas with towels or old linens to prevent additional soiling.
Discard open food packages. The food could be contaminated.
If electrical service is off, clean out your freezer and refrigerator. Leave the doors propped open or place charcoal in the unit.
Send clothing with heavy smoke damage to a qualified professional dry cleaner who specializes in smoke damage.
Clean Formica and chrome fixtures in the kitchen and bathroom to prevent permanent tarnishing.
Wipe residue from porcelain bath fixtures to prevent etching.
Wipe the leaves of houseplants to remove smoke residue.
Change the air filter on your furnace if it uses forced hot air.
Tape cheesecloth over intake and outlet air registers to capture any loose soot in the air. This is even more effective if the cheesecloth is damp.
If the outside temperature is above 60 degrees, air out the house to reduce smoke odor.
Important warnings on smoke and fire damage
Do not attempt to wash any papered or flat painted walls without consulting 1st Response. Incorrect cleaning procedures could compound the soot residue problem.
Do not attempt to clean carpets or upholstered furniture. Again, incorrect procedures could increase damage.
Do not use electrical appliances that have been close to fire or water before having them checked. They could malfunction.
Do not use ceiling fixtures if the ceiling is wet. A short circuit could result.
Do not touch anything. Soot on your hands can permeate upholstery, walls, and woodwork, causing further damage.
Do not eat food that has been exposed to fire or smoke.
Do not wait to call for professional help.
Call 1st Response, 345-4911.
If you’re in the midst of a water, fire or smoke disaster, know that 1st Response will be there when you call 345-4911. In the meantime, here are some ways to mitigate the damage yourself.
What to do if you ever have water damage:
If the outside temperature is above 60 degrees, use dehumidifiers if available.
Use fans to circulate the air and assist drying.
Remove as much water as possible by mopping and blotting.
Wipe furniture dry.
Lift draperies off carpet, loop through a coat hanger, and place the hanger on the drapery rod.
Prop up wet furniture cushions for even drying and place small wood blocks or aluminum foil under furniture legs.
Remove wet area rugs or other floor coverings.
Open furniture drawers, closet doors, and luggage to enhance drying.
Move photos, paintings, and art objects to a safe, dry location.
Remove wet fabrics and dry them as soon as possible. Hang furs and leather goods to dry separately at room temperature.
Remove damp books from shelves and spread out to dry.
If damage occurs during a cool season, leave heat on; if in summer, use an air conditioner if available.
Important warnings on water damage
Do not use an ordinary household vacuum to remove water.
Do not use electrical appliances while on wet carpet or wet floors.
Do not go into rooms with standing water if the electricity is still on.
Do not lift tacked down carpet without professional help. Lifting the carpet incorrectly could promote shrinkage.
Do not wait to call for professional help. Damage from the water and bacteria growth can begin within hours.
What to do if you have smoke/fire damage
Blow off or brush-vacuum loose soot particles from upholstery, drapes, and carpets.
Cover carpeted traffic areas with towels or old linens to prevent additional soiling.
Discard open food packages. The food could be contaminated.
If electrical service is off, clean out your freezer and refrigerator. Leave the doors propped open or place charcoal in the unit.
Send clothing with heavy smoke damage to a qualified professional dry cleaner who specializes in smoke damage.
Clean Formica and chrome fixtures in the kitchen and bathroom to prevent permanent tarnishing.
Wipe residue from porcelain bath fixtures to prevent etching.
Wipe the leaves of houseplants to remove smoke residue.
Change the air filter on your furnace if it uses forced hot air.
Tape cheesecloth over intake and outlet air registers to capture any loose soot in the air. This is even more effective if the cheesecloth is damp.
If the outside temperature is above 60 degrees, air out the house to reduce smoke odor.
Important warnings on smoke and fire damage
Do not attempt to wash any papered or flat painted walls without consulting 1st Response. Incorrect cleaning procedures could compound the soot residue problem.
Do not attempt to clean carpets or upholstered furniture. Again, incorrect procedures could increase damage.
Do not use electrical appliances that have been close to fire or water before having them checked. They could malfunction.
Do not use ceiling fixtures if the ceiling is wet. A short circuit could result.
Do not touch anything. Soot on your hands can permeate upholstery, walls, and woodwork, causing further damage.
Do not eat food that has been exposed to fire or smoke.
Do not wait to call for professional help.
Call 1st Response, 345-4911.
Labels:
1st response,
damage,
emergency,
fire,
first response,
newark,
ohio,
reconstruction,
smoke,
water,
wind
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